Friday, July 23, 2010

Mount Kinabalu ~ Info, Tips & Tale

A few of my friends have been asking about my Gunung Kinabalu experience. As much as I am lazy to update this blog, I think it might be beneficial if I record the details here. In case anyone asks me again... I can refer back to this post or link it to them... Ha... bijak!
 

Alamak... where do I begin?
General:
  • The mountain top is known as Low's Peak. Don't get misdirected with the word "LOW"... it's definitely not Low ok :))
  • The (normal) package takes 2 days. You will stay one night at 6km (Laban Rata) before proceeding to the top next morning. Sleep at 8pm. Start hiking to the top at 2.00 - 2.30 am.... this is so that we can reach the top before/on sunrise.
  • They have 1 day climb kinda thing.... but usually on Climbathon, or on special request/package.(not sure... please check) :P
  • Each groups will be assigned with guides/porters. the larger the group, the more guides u'll be assigned to.
  • Althugh u come in a group, u dont have to move as one big group all the time. U will move in a smaller groups as u climb, following ur own speed.... The guide/s will follow the last batch/person in ur group to make sure no one is left behind.
  • They also sell sticks to help with ur climb... cost around rm3-4 per stick.
  • There is a resting hut / Pondok for each 1km. they come with Toilets, water supply + resting place. So worry not...
The Route:
  • The track to mountain Top = 8.7km (elevation = 4095 metres)
    Timpohon Gate to Laban Rata = 6km +  Laban Rata to Low's Peak (the top) = 2.7km
  • However, there are 2 starting points for the climb
      1] Timpohon Gate
      2] Mesilau Nature Resort
  • These two routes will meet at the KM4 (kilometre 4) of Timpohon Route and KM5.7of Mesilau Route
    Which means, you have nearly 2km extra distance coming from Mesilau track, but once u reach meeting point of these 2 routes, the track uses the Timpohon's distance. Thus 5.7km= back to 4km :P
  • The starting point at Mesilau is at higher ground compared to Timpohon, so the beginning of the climb will be more "decent" compared to Timpohon which is steep right from the beginning. However, since mesilau route crosses ridge bla bla... its longer and this is challenging too. 2km difference in "hilly" route is a biggg difference ok. So both got pros n cons la.
  • Timpohon - shorter... but steep from the beginning. Can be hard for those have insufficient training on stairs/steps.
  • Mesilau - longer, easy for the start but gets harder because of the distance. But it has beautiful sceneries along the way compared to Timpohon.

Lodging:
  • Which ever Route u use.... u will come up to Laban Rata...
  • U can choose whether u want to include food(buffet) in your package. My advise: Yes, please do! The buffet is good and u really need lotsa energy ;-) and u dont have to think about the arrangement.
    They cover lunch (first day climb) + dinner at laban rata + early breakfast (2am) + breakfast (8-10am) + lunch at Kinabalu Park (after climbing down)
  • There are 2 lodges:
    1.. Laban Rata - this is the main building. Reception + Food. They have rooms here... more expensive. + point: U dont have to move up and down for food :P
    2.. Gunting Lagadan - this is 100m from main building. 100m becomes a fear-factor issue because of its steep n stairs all the way up/down. + point:: Cheaper and the gate to proceed to Low's Peak is at gunting lagadan. So at 2.00am... u save 100m climb, and it meansss a load!! And you can arrange your makan-time wisely so that you don't have to climb up+down so much. Skip the 2am breakfast (eat somthing u tapau / somthing light like biscuits etc) so that u dont have to go back to laban rata lodge and climb all the way up again --> horror man. Oh yap, we stayed in Gunting Lagadan + we did skip that breakfast.
  • Buffet-dinner is available from 5pm-7pm. So make sure you reach before buffet ends.
  • Water heater works until 7pm... if u need shower, u need hot shower....so again make sure on time ;-)
  • by 8pm... everyone is required to sleeeeeep.....
  *We started our climb at 8.20am and we reached Laban Rata at 1pm. So we had time to kill and enjoy the view and take lotsa lotsa fotos....
 
 
Laban rata

killing time :P
gunting lagadan
 

Once u made ur mind... on the package.... and preparing for the expidition. Some things u need to prepare or keep in mind:
 
 
BAGS / Loads:
  • Carry your own bags only if you think you are fit enough
  • If you are not so fit... and u insist on carrying ur own bags... of course, u can still make it to laban rata... but quite tiring n u will be very2 sloww.... u must remember laban rata is not ur ultimate goal, u have another climb the next morning... very early in the morning... so safe as much energy as u can.
  • if u are a pro... then u can carry as many bags as u want... even ur frens' bags n charge them .. haha
  • Here's an important Note: You can pass your loads/bags to your porters. They will charge u according to weights... Price changes from time to time... but roughly RM 4-5 per kg.
  • What to pass to porters (i.e of my suggestions la):
     ..cloths (especially the thick ones) - sweater jackets, gloves, etc
     ..headlamp
     ..extra munchies (power bar, biscuits etc)
     ..extra slippers/shoes if u bring any
     ..extra drinks (i.e Gatorade / 100 plus)
     ..toiletries etc
  • What i suggest u should bring along in a smaller bagpack:
      ..ur own version of first aid kit - muscle pain creame/plaster, minyak angin cap kapak etc
      ..food - somthing simple... if u take package with food, they will suply lunchbox
      ..powerbars/ powergel
      ..towel/face towel (optional)
      ..raincoat (the disposable one is light)
      ..personal belongings (wallet/hp/passport etc)
      ..camera.... hahha..... wajib :))
      ..drinks - 500ml mineral water +/ 100plus/gatorade (depend on ur level of consumption)
  • If your water supply finishes, u can get em at the resting hut (pondok)... direct water supply... safe but not guaranteed everyone can take it. Some got diarrhea... some have no prob at all :P

  • Once u reach Laban Rata / Gunting Lagadan, rearrange ur bags after retrieving it from ur porter... u need different set of things/attire for the next climb
  • The next morning.... get into ur "i'm-afraid-i-might-get-frostbite" uniforms... 

to the MOUNTAIN TOP:
  • you will start the climb at 2.30am ... will be very dark.. =  headlamp !
  • it's cold... different people have different ways to adapt to temperature change. to be safe... prepare for the worst. bring along ur first aid kit thingy... and wear warm clothings (i.e extra layer of tshirts/pants if u must)... sweater.
  • and ur climb involves a lot of rope use.... = gloves !



Climbing Down:
  • again.... u can pass ur bags to the porter...so u can put all ur heavy-stuff back in there hehe
  • if u want to be extra cautious... in case u have problems with your toes/ toenails... bring along a good sandals/slippers... u can replace ur hiking shoes with it once in a while / througout. If u comfortable in hiking shoes... dats the best lar.
  • use knee-wrap... helps a lot
  • and the stick if u bought one before climbing. helps a lot to support ur knees n footing.

I'm not sure what else to jot... Hmmm.... I'll update if there are more tips... or maybe I'll just leave it to you to make further research on do's/donts... ;-)
OK now....

PRACTISE:
  1. It is a physical challenge... but it doesnt solely rely on ur physical condition... You must be mentally prepared too... especially for first timers.
  2. Practise! U need them. But do not push too hard on yourself. Start with jogs, then hills and nearest mountain if available :P
  3. Some say it wont be worth if you go to another mountain just to train for kinabalu i.e going to gunung tahan... coz it shoiuld be an expidition of its own. I guess its not the matter of how high is the hill/mountain but how often u practice.
    i.e. I dint do mountains.. just hills, with Bt.Bendera being the highest. For Kinabalu, Bt.Bendera + Bt.Jambul is a very good place to start... coz it has stairs + steps just like in Kinabalu (except that Kinabalu's steps are steeper laa) hehe..
  4. People have different opinions on practise and how much u need to be prepared for this. One pakcik told me... its up to yourself... you can go with the most minimal practise... but you will struggle along the way. If you want to enjoy the climb, then "bersusah2 dahulu, bersenang2 kemudian".
  5. U need to also focus on climbing down... whenever u go hiking.. make sure u hike down as well and never resort to other alternatives.
    but just in case.... If u have serious cramps/ injuries that make it impossible for u to climb down back to mesilau/ timpohon, the porters can carry you (im not kidding) and it costs around rm200 per kilometre.
  6. According to kinabalu folklore, Some active people with very good stamina are said to be stuck in Laban Rata... gone flat after reaching laban rata, unable to proceed to the top the next morning.
  7. Kinabaly folklore also reports... Some with asthma and heart problems are able to reach the top. The remedy? Keep moving on... even if you are slow, dont stop too long at one stop... just keep on moving forward.
  8. Age doesnt matter, even those in their 60's can make it.
  9. What does it say?....as much as ur physical condition matters... when it comes to moving ur mucles to take another step forward....   it's all in the mind....
Last but not least... My very own tale:
Despite having uncertainties n goosebumps, it was a fairly a good climb. The wheather was good, no... better.. it was great. We didnt stop too long at one station, and we reached laban rata quite early :)

Then jeng jeng jeng....
I got sick right after my dinner. My temperature increased and I was getting fever. It was really sudden and shocking all the same, coz I was perfectly ok before that. Zue gave me Panadol ActivFast... and to my relieve it worked. Headache seemed to ooze, and I felt better. Just when I thought I could finally relax n go to sleep, I started to have difficulties in breathing. I had blocked nose, both nasal passages affected. I couldnt lie down, because once I do so, I couldnt breathe properly, had to breathe through my mouth. How was I supposed to sleep if I couldnt lie down? My difficulties in breathing was somehow disturbing my fellow roomates to sleep... Kak Ilah tried helping me by her newly found method of pasting koyok on my nose... It kinda worked for a minute or so... but still I couldnt breathe well.
I imagined the all the worst thing that could happen...
But.... I came all the way... not to be stuck in Laban Rata with blocked nose!  :(
Even if I had to stay awake all night (since I can't lie down)... I planned to go on with my climb next morning! I was determined. Even if it took 5 hours to reach the top, I told myself I will go for it. 

While I was fighting with my voice-overs... I remembered this traditional method of using Vicks to ease blocked nose. went to the pantry room (the only room with lights on)... and boiled water and put some Vicks in it, and breathe in the steam coming out from the pot with my head covered with a towel. Wow... it was working... I can breathe...hoorah....went to my room to sleep....

10 minutes passed... I was panting for air... blocked again! Back I went to the pantry, now all alone, no one was around the corridor.... and repeated my treatment at the hall opposite the pantry. I considered sleeping there at the hall... Then I realised the windows had no curtains and I could see d darkness outside, trees swaying peacefully with the wind. Yikes... no way.... I brought the hot pot back to my room, placed it on my bed.. I laid down with my face in the pot... and I forgot what happened next....

1.45 am, They woke me up. I was sleeping in normal sleeping position and the pot was on the floor beside my bed. Huh... didnt remember putting it there... I must have been too sleepy I dint remember? I felt way better and no more blocked nose... So.... up up and prepared for the climb... and Alhamdulillah... I made it  :-) Although at the last peak.. I was practically crawling ala Smeagol to get to the top :P

In conclusion to this very long post....

What would you need / need to have in order to conquer THe Mount Kinabalu ?
Physical readiness + Mental preparation+ Luck
  
 Is it worth all the trouble? Would I recommend?
YESS !!